Gulmarg
Gulmarg is Kashmir's alpine playground, and the one place in the valley that changes character completely between seasons. From December to March it is a ski resort with some of the most talked-about lift-served powder in Asia. From May onwards the snow retreats and the same slopes become a vast wildflower meadow with one of the world's highest golf courses laid across it.
Almost everyone comes for the gondola. Phase 1 lifts you from the meadow to Kongdoori at roughly 3,050 m; Phase 2 continues to Apharwat at about 3,980 m, which makes it the second-highest operating cable car anywhere. Both phases run on the weather, not the timetable, and that is worth planning around rather than fighting.
What to do in Gulmarg
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01
Ride the gondola to Apharwat
Phase 1 to Kongdoori is comfortable for everyone. Phase 2 to Apharwat at 3,980 m is the memorable one, but it closes readily for wind and can sell out early in peak season. Buy tickets at the counter the moment you arrive.
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02
Ski or take a first lesson
Kongdoori's beginner slopes are gentle and well-suited to a first day on skis, with local instructors and rental gear on site. Apharwat's bowls are genuinely serious off-piste terrain and not a place to learn.
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03
Walk the meadow in summer
From May to September the snow is gone and Gulmarg becomes an enormous flower meadow ringed by pine. The circular walk past the old St Mary's church and around the golf course takes a gentle couple of hours.
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04
Play the world's highest golf course
The 18-hole Gulmarg Golf Course sits at 2,650 m and is among the highest in the world. Green fees and club hire are arranged on the day.
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05
Drang waterfall and Tangmarg
On the road up, the Drang waterfall freezes into a wall of ice in deep winter and runs hard with snowmelt in spring. It makes a natural stop on the drive.
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06
Sledging and pony rides
Run by local operators at fixed rates in the meadow below the gondola. Not included in package prices anywhere, so agree the rate before you start.
Best time to visit
December to March for snow and skiing, with January and February the most dependable for deep powder. May to September for meadows, walking and golf, when daytime temperatures are pleasant and the flowers are out. April and October and November are quiet shoulder months that can go either way, and the gondola may run reduced phases.
Good to know
Getting there
About 56 km from Srinagar, roughly two hours by road through Tangmarg. There is no railway and no airport; every visitor drives up. In winter we use vehicles fitted with snow chains for the final climb.
Road closures
Heavy snowfall can shut the Tangmarg–Gulmarg stretch for a few hours while it is cleared. It is almost never a full-day closure, but do not schedule a tight flight connection for a morning you are coming down the mountain.
Altitude
Apharwat at 3,980 m is high enough that some visitors feel breathless. Take Phase 2 slowly, drink water, and skip it if you have a heart or respiratory condition without medical advice.
Where to stay
Staying a night in Gulmarg buys you the gondola before the day-trip crowds arrive from Srinagar. Most visitors on a shorter trip day-trip from Srinagar instead, which works but means queueing.
Questions people ask
About 56 km, or roughly two hours by road via Tangmarg. There is no train or flight; everyone drives. Most visitors either day-trip from Srinagar or stay one to two nights in Gulmarg itself.
Gondola tickets are sold at the counter on the day and the price is set by the cable car corporation, with Phase 2 costing more than Phase 1. We book them for you at the counter price with no markup, but they are not included in package rates because availability depends on the weather.
Gulmarg is usually under snow from mid-December through March. January and February are the most reliable months for deep powder. Early December can be hit-and-miss depending on the year.
Yes. Kongdoori at the top of Phase 1 has gentle beginner slopes with local instructors and rental equipment. Apharwat, at the top of Phase 2, is advanced off-piste terrain and not suitable for a first attempt.
